Dr. Des Fernandes and the Science Behind Environ's Vitamin A Step-Up Program
Dr. Des Fernandes, plastic surgeon and Environ founder, built an entire skincare philosophy around one discovery: most skin is chronically starved of Vitamin A. Here's the science behind his step-up program and why it changes everything.
If you've ever wondered why Environ Skin Care works so differently from other skincare lines, the answer starts with one man and one observation that changed the way he thought about skin health entirely.
Who Is Dr. Des Fernandes?
Dr. Des Fernandes is a South African plastic and reconstructive surgeon who spent decades studying the skin — not just how to repair it surgically, but what it actually needs to function at its best. He founded Environ Skin Care in 1990, and the entire product line was built around a single scientific insight: most human skin is chronically deficient in Vitamin A.
This wasn't a marketing angle. It was a clinical observation. Dr. Fernandes noticed that patients — regardless of age, skin type, or skincare routine — consistently showed signs of Vitamin A depletion. And when he looked at why, the answer was straightforward: UV exposure destroys Vitamin A in the skin every single day. Without deliberate replenishment, the skin falls further and further behind.
The Problem: Vitamin A Depletion Is Constant
Vitamin A is essential to virtually every function the skin performs. It regulates cell turnover, supports collagen production, maintains barrier integrity, controls oil production, and helps the skin repair itself after damage.
When Vitamin A levels drop — which happens continuously through sun exposure, pollution, and the natural aging process — the skin starts to show it:
- Rough, uneven texture
- Fine lines and loss of firmness
- Enlarged pores
- Dullness and slow cell renewal
- Increased sensitivity and impaired healing
Dr. Fernandes' insight was that most of what we call "aging skin" is actually Vitamin A-deficient skin. Address the deficiency, and the skin has the tools it needs to repair and renew itself.
Why Retinyl Palmitate — Not Retinoic Acid
Once Dr. Fernandes identified Vitamin A depletion as the root issue, the next question was how to replenish it effectively without causing harm.
Prescription-strength retinoic acid (tretinoin) is the most potent form of topical Vitamin A — but it's also the most aggressive. It bypasses the skin's natural conversion process and delivers active retinoic acid directly, which is why it causes the peeling, redness, and sensitivity that many people experience.
Dr. Fernandes chose a different path. Environ uses retinyl palmitate, an ester form of Vitamin A that the skin converts into retinoic acid on its own terms. The conversion pathway — retinyl palmitate → retinol → retinaldehyde → retinoic acid — means the skin self-regulates how much active Vitamin A it uses at any given time.
This is not a compromise. It's a more physiologically intelligent approach. The skin gets what it needs, at the rate it can handle, without the inflammatory response that comes from forcing high concentrations of active retinoic acid through the barrier all at once.
The Step-Up Program: Building Tolerance Scientifically
The most distinctive feature of Environ is its Vitamin A Step-Up System — and it's the part that most clearly reflects Dr. Fernandes' scientific thinking.
Environ's core moisturizer, the AVST (Avance Vitamin A, C & E Treatment), comes in five levels — AVST 1 through AVST 5 — each with progressively higher concentrations of Vitamin A and antioxidants.
You always start at AVST 1. Not because it isn't effective, but because skin that has been Vitamin A-deficient for years needs time to adapt to replenishment. Even with the gentler retinyl palmitate, introducing too high a concentration too quickly can cause a temporary adjustment reaction — mild sensitivity, slight dryness — as the skin recalibrates.
The step-up program eliminates that by building tolerance gradually:
- AVST 1 & 2 — Foundation levels. The skin begins to normalize, cell turnover improves, and hydration increases.
- AVST 3 & 4 — Mid-range levels. Texture becomes noticeably smoother, fine lines soften, and tone evens out.
- AVST 5 — Maintenance level. The skin is now operating with optimal Vitamin A levels, and the results are cumulative and lasting.
Most people spend several months at each level before moving up. There's no rush — the goal is to build the skin's capacity to use higher concentrations effectively, not to push through discomfort.
The Role of Antioxidants
Dr. Fernandes didn't stop at Vitamin A. He recognized that Vitamin A works best in the presence of antioxidants — particularly Vitamins C and E — which protect the skin from oxidative damage and support the stability of Vitamin A itself.
Every level of the AVST contains a combination of Vitamin A, C, and E, with concentrations increasing alongside the Vitamin A as you step up. This isn't incidental — it reflects a whole-system approach to skin health. You're not just replenishing one nutrient; you're giving the skin the full nutritional environment it needs to function optimally.
What the Science Means for Your Skin
The step-up program isn't about patience for its own sake. It's about results that last.
Skin that has been gradually brought up to optimal Vitamin A levels — through a process it can handle — performs differently than skin that has been temporarily stimulated by aggressive actives. The improvements in texture, firmness, tone, and resilience are structural, not superficial. They reflect genuine changes in how the skin is functioning at a cellular level.
For clients at Celtic Spa, this is why we recommend Environ as the foundation of any serious skincare routine. The science behind it is sound, the approach is thoughtful, and the results — when used consistently — are real.
Starting Your Environ Journey
If you're new to Environ, the best first step is a professional facial and consultation. We'll assess your skin, explain where you're starting on the step-up program, and build a home care routine that works alongside your in-clinic treatments.
The combination of professional Environ facials and consistent home use is where the real transformation happens — and it all starts with understanding what your skin actually needs.
Book your Environ facial appointment online or reach out with any questions. We're happy to walk you through it. You can also explore our full facial and skin treatment menu to see everything we offer.
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Written by
Kate at Celtic Spa
Licensed aesthetician and laser specialist at Celtic Spa & Laser Services in Attleboro, MA. Shop Kate's skincare picks →